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0e1f616
(Get the code!)
It's not quite the solution I had in mind, but it does seem like an improvement.
Other phone platforms automatically pick a relevant time zone any time the cell radio is turned on, so they get the right time with no configuration (and update that time automatically during trips, after each landing).
At the moment, my Ubuntu phones now automatically choose "English (New Zealand)" or "English (Australia)" as the language, since that's where my SIM cards are from, but they don't get anywhere near the correct time until I manually configure "America/Denver" as my time zone. The improvement I see is that I no longer have to change this manually in the settings tool, since it's now one of the OOBE steps. It also sorts Denver to the top of the list for "den".