Comment 84 for bug 395299

FWIW, gnome-appearance-properties and gconf-editor both work for changing settings, as long as they are run as user gdm and an instance of gconfd-2 is running for gdm (which happens while the gdm screen is up, but not after login). So if you log out to the gdm screen, log in on a text console, export DISPLAY=:0.0, then run whichever of them with sudo -u gdm, then switch back to X on tty7, it's somewhat configurable graphically (though that's quite a hassle).